Sukosan to Trogir: The Commodore's Blog from Croatia

It was such a delight to get back onboard the old "Dream of Osprey" on Saturday evening. She lives in Sukosan near Zadar, so I bought a bus ticket to get me from Trogir back to Sukosan at 11 o'clock. Half an hour later - no bus!  I asked the lady at the ticket desk. " you wait. I don't know if it's late". When it came, half an hour later, it was a lovely bus and got me there by 3 o'clock!   David my co-owner handed our boat over in pristine shape and Angus and Mark, my crew, arrived promptly at 1030pm, off the Ryanair flight. 


The forecasts for Sunday onwards were dire - Bura, Bura everyone said. But by Sunday morning the bad weather was delayed (very Croatian!) so we motored off at 1130 with no wind!  But we did find enough of it in the Srednji Kanal on our way to the Kornati Archipelago to get 3 knots under sail before passing through the very narrow channel (less than 20m) between Dugi Otock and Katina. 


To beat the Bura, now forecast for Monday evening, we needed to get as far down Kornat island as possible, so we finally anchored in Lopatika Bay.  Where we met the surliest waiter I've ever met in Croatia!  Of course, we'd anchored rather than taken his mooring - but we ate and drank copious quantities in his konoba (inn) while being told that it was dangerous to anchor - strong winds coming!  We ignored him and set off at 0600 the following morning to make sure we got within shouting distance of Trogir before the Bura appeared.  To be fair to our surly waiter the "strong winds" was a quite brisk Scirroco from the South East - bang on the nose! - and we had an uncomfortable sea most of the way: the forecast thunderstorm hit us half an hour from our destination and we were thoroughly "drookit". The Lightning flashes all around us was scary too. But we rounded into the Bay of Vinisce at 3.40pm,  which has excellent holding and is completely sheltered. Wonderful red sky evening, proper cooked supper - even had home made salad dressing!  And we await, in deathly calm at 9 o'clock in the evening, the onset of the Bura!

Michael Forbes Smith, 06.09.2016 | More from Michael Forbes Smith’s blog